When Ulysse Nardin introduced the Perpetual Calendar back in 1996, it was a watchmaking breakthrough since it was the very first Perpetual Calendar watch that offers the forwards and backwards calendar setting via a single crown. And that was not the end – this timepiece does not need to be sent back to the manufacturer, because all adjustments can be done manually. Since than, there is no other watchmaker who has rivaled the Perpetual Calendar by Ulysse Nardin.
At the recently closed Baselworld 2015, the Swiss manufacturer unveiled a new Marine Perpetual line which brings an amazing aesthetic twist with diamonds and rubber.
The Ulysse Nardin specialists for diamond setting have used the pioneering exclusive “3S” diamond setting process on a stainless steel case with a matte-black rubber coating. This process actually means “soft stone in the sky” and the combination of hard and soft materials exposes a design that exudes luxurious aesthetic and active lifestyle.
The new Marine Perpetual is available in five different variants which are either colored or black. Three colored editions are produced in the limited quantity of 28 pieces each. They are available in blue, red, or green color (their referent numbers are 333 – 92B3 – 3C/923, 333 – 92B6 – 3C/926 and 333 – 92B8 – 3C/928) each crafted from the hardest classified mineral after diamond – Corundum, which is best known for its gem varieties, ruby and sapphire. Transparent exemplars are used as gems, and called ruby if red, whereas all other colors are called sapphire.
The most luxurious model in the new line is a diamond-set timepiece that boasts 54 baguettes diamonds (weighing 3.78 carats). The elegant version of Ulysse Nardin Marine Perpetual with the referent number 333 – 92B0 – 3C/923 is also issued in the limited series of 28 specimens worldwide.
My favorite watch in this series is a sleek, black edition that features stones crafted from ceramic. This handsome newcomer (ref. 333 – 92B2 – 3C/923) is produced in the limited edition of 99 pieces.
The precious stones are skillfully set on the rim of the dial, thus framing the iconic wave pattern on the face whose color corresponds to its stone. The dial center is reserved for hour and minute hands, and there are also the day of the week and the month displays. At the 6 o’clock position there is a two-digit year aperture, whilst the big date mechanism occupies the 2 o’clock position.
The watch case measures 45,8mm in diameter and it is shielded with anti-reflective sapphire crystals. The case is constructed to resist water pressure up to 200 meters (660 feet).
The beating heart of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Perpetual is the in-house manufactured Caliber UN-33 mechanical movement. The self-winding mechanism is capable to store enough power to keep the watch ticking for approximately 48 hours.
Each Marine Perpetual watch is attached to a comfortable black rubber strap with two ceramic elements and a folding clasp.