The Geneva-based watchmaker, Urwerk, has decided to enrich its UR 105 collection with a new model with a very peculiar appearance. Urwerk UR 105 T-Rex is named after a bronze cover that covers the majority of the watch’s face and which has the appearance of a reptilian skin, hence the name. The bronze pattern with rich texture does not cover only the very bottom of the piece which is reserved for the minute scale that shows the time with the help of the recognizable satellite hours complication that the brand is widely known for. The new timekeeper by the watchmaker led by Baumgartner and Frei is made in the restricted series of just 22 copies. The watch runs on an in-house automatic mechanical movement with adjustable winding rate and it is sold at the price of $68,000.
T-Rex is the latest model in UR 105 collection which is reserved for watches with a characteristic bezel in the form of a knight’s breastplate which tell the time with the use of the brand’s own invention – the recognizable satellite hour complication. It means it includes a carousel with four satellites where each one of them includes three hour numerals. The branches of the central mounted carousel revolve and are simultaneously used to show the minutes with the pointers that stand at their ends and correspond to the minute scale at the bottom. After the passing of an hour, the new satellite emerges and takes over as the main indicator and so on. It is an original concept developed by the brand some 18 years ago which is arguably still the best known trait of Urwerk watches.
After the initial introduction of UR 105 models, the brand introduced the ones with the added designation TA which stands for turbine automatic and which refers to the fact its self-winding movement was regulated by a pair of turbines visible on the rear side of the piece. Prior to the latest novelty, the Genevese brand released four of UR 105 TA models. Two of them were more traditional looking (all black and the combination of black titanium and red gold),while the other pair was made with brighter fruity color schemes (orange and lemon). The quartet of UR 105 TA models (which were released last year) is still available for sale.
The latest model in the stands apart from the previous watches with the UR 105 TA designation and this difference is immediately recognizable. As it has been said, its main distinctive feature is a presence of a bronze bezel with an eye-catching texture which simply forces one to go across it with his or her fingers. Moreover, the appeal of the segment and the watch overall will only continue to rise, since bronze over time gradually develops a specific patina that makes it look even more distinguished. In order to make the peculiar surface with a rich texture, the component is micro-sandblasted, bead-blasted, oxidized with a brush and purified.
This interesting bezel is attached to a basis which is made of blackened titanium. The case is made in an irregular shape which is yet another trait that clearly reveals that it is an Urwerk piece. It is pretty large housing which is caused with its satellite hour complication and has the width of 39.9 mm and the length of 53 mm. It also features a curved profile on both of its ends, while the thickest section of the profile measures to 16.8 mm. Both sides of the case are likewise covered with sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatments (though the front one is almost completely covered with the T-Rex bezel). The novelty by Urwerk is water resistant to 30 meters.
It should also be said that all indices and indications on its small dial on the bottom are treated with Super-Luminova coating for better legibility. Hours and minutes are its only supported indications.
The movement that stands behind the interesting manner in which the watch indicates the current time is UR 5.02 self-winding mechanical movement with turbines. It features a Swiss lever escapement and has 52 jewels integrated in tis structure. The movement operates at the high rate of 4 Hz and it is stored with enough power reserve to keep it running for two entire days, as it is common for automatic movements.
Apart from brass which is used for the construction of three main-plates and the carrousel of the movement, Urwerk also used modern materials in its creation. Its Geneva crosses are made from bronze beryllium, while the orbital structure utilizes material know as PEEK (which is the abbreviation for PolyEtherEthrecetone). It is also important to note that the movement allows the adjustment of the winding-rate which is performed with the mentioned system with a pair of turbines. Depending on the state of its power reserve, the winding is one of three supported modes: full, stop and red. With these changes in the sensitivity of winding, the movement is wound faster when it is necessary and it is also disabled when the storage is full, while any potential excessive tension on its mainspring is avoided.
Naturally, UR 5.02 is also embellished with decorations such as perlage, bead-blasting, while the heads of the screws in it are chamfered and polished.
The watch which was initially shown to the public at the SIHH 2016 exhibition, in the same city from which the brand originates, is paired with a black wristlet made of alligator leather.