Once again, Officine Panerai opened the year with a number of great novelties from each of four brand’s collections. Revealed at the just opened SIHH 2013 in Geneva, new Panerai watches are presented in the iconic vintage design, powered with advanced in-house mechanisms and crafted in high quality materials, widely used by the renowned watchmaker in the last couple of years. There are several impressive Special Editions, including a Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M made of titanium, a new Bronzo and a beautiful Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica. The Contemporary Collection is extended with three models, including a new Luminor 1950 Regatta. Those who prefer the brand’s origins, can choose among four Radimir 1940′s models made either of stainless steel of rose gold.
Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 364)
First of four stunning timepieces that come as Special Editions is an extraordinary diving watch, resistant to water-pressure up to the depth of 2,500 meters. Following the brand’s long tradition, the Luminor Submersible 1950 2500m 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 364) offers exceptional performances to professional divers. Its robust, 47mm case is crafted in brushed titanium that provides both lightness and toughness. The amazing water-resistance is also achieved by the implementations of a classic Panerai crown-protecting device and the little helium valve escapement, located at the 8 o’clock position. Finally, a brushed titanium case-back is screw-down.
A black dial is wide, clear and highly readable, featuring applied hour markers coated with a luminous substance that provides a great legibility, even in extreme conditions. The small seconds sub-dial is located at the 9 o’clock position, while the date window takes the 3 o’clock position. The dial is protected with 5.9mm thick sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. A brushed titanium bezel with nice polished edges can be rotated in one direction (anti-clockwise), which provides the calculating of diving time on its graduated scale with minute intervals. Its design is based on the 1956 model, created for the Egyptian Navy. The case and the bezel fit perfectly with a specially designed rubber strap, fastened by a large trapezoid-shaped buckle in brushed titanium.
The watch is powered by a Panerai in-house P.9000 Calibre self-winding movement that oscillates at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This 7.9mm thick mechanism with 28 jewels is built of 197 components, including a Glucydur balance, an Incabloc anti-shock device and two barrels, which provides 3 days of power-reserve.
Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo (PAM 507)
Two years ago, Panerai came with a thrilling edition of its first model with a bronze case (check out my review of PAM 382). For SIHH 2013, Panerai prepared a new Special Edition of a Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo watch, distinctive by an arc-shaped power-reserve indicator at the 5 o’clock position. According to photographs, there is a slight difference in army green color of the dial, which is, beside the variation of a mechanism (a P.9002 Calibre includes a power-reserve indicator), the only difference between old and new Bronzo.
Crafted in CuSn8 brushed bronze (tough material, which is resistant to corrosion), a masculine case has the diameter of 47mm and features a studded, unidirectional turning bezel with the scale for calculating of dive time. Thanks to a special system designed and patented by Officine Panerai, which links the bezel with the case, the ratchet rotates precisely from one click to the next. The case also incorporates a classic bridge device with the locking lever, which protects the winding crown. Since bronze reacts to the external agents (air, humidity, heat and wear) and forms the patina, this watch will probably get the unique sign of aging after years of wearing, which is pretty cool. However, this patina doesn’t affect the quality of material. Thus, the primary polished shine of the watch can always be restored.
On the highly legible dial, there is the small seconds sub-dial at the 9 o’clock position, as well as the date aperture at the 3 o’clock and applied hour markers which are covered with a luminous material. The green dial and bronze nicely match a brown leather strap with white stitching, giving the watch a distinctive vintage military look. A case-back is covered with sapphire crystal, revealing a P.9002 Calibre self-winding mechanism. This high-end movement oscillates with 28,800 beats per hour and provides a great power-reserve of 3 days. Finally, PAM 507 has the superb water-resistance up to 300 meters (990 feet).
Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica (PAM 508)
There is another interesting Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic watch, but this time, it is crafted in matt black ceramic that gives it a completely new look. Inspired by the brand’s marine heritage, PAM 508 is the “all in black” model with just a few contrasting elements, added for both, aesthetical and functional reasons. This great looking watch features the identical design and the same elements of the PAM 507 (a 47mm case, a unidirectional rotating bezel with the graduated scale, a bridge that protects a winding crown). However, its case is made of brushed black ceramic, a material synthesised from zirconium oxide powder which ensures lightness and toughness, as well as resistance to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures.
A black dial features contrasting applied hour numerals in ecru Super-LumiNova. Tips of skeletonized hands are also covered with luminous material for a great readability. Rounding the dark style of the watch, there is a stylish leather strap which rounds with a large trapezoid-shaped titanium buckle, covered in black PVD. A screw down case-back is also crafted in titanium with special hard black coating. It is highlighted with an iconic SLC torpedo engraving.
This Special Edition is equipped with s P.9000 Calibre, entirely developed and executed in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel. Made of 197 components, this automatic mechanism provides 72 hours of power-reserve, thanks to double barrels. Just like all timepieces from the Submersible line, this stunning watch with the water resistance of up to 300 meters, offers exceptional performances for professional divers.
Panerai Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica (PAM 446)
Finally, there is an exclusive edition of a pocket watch that combines classic design elements with the most advanced technology. Through both sides of its case, you can enjoy every single part of a skeletonized P.2005/S Calibre with a tourbillon regulator.
The tourbillon cage of this hand-winding mechanism completes two rotations per minute. This pretty unusual feature is reflected by a small ecru disc, located within the small seconds sub-dial, at the 9 o’clock position. Thanks to three barrels, the P.2005/S Calibre can work 6 days when it is fully wound. The power-reserve is indicated on the back-side of the watch. On the dial side, you can read hours, minutes, small seconds and the second time zone, indicated by the central GMT hand.
The over-sized, Radiomir case has the diameter of 59mm and it is made of black ceramic, as well as a characteristic skeletonized device that connects the case with the removable chain. The Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica can also be transformed into a table clock by using a special support.