At SIHH 2012, the Genevian watchmaker, Roger Dubuis, launched basically three lines: an extension of Excalibur, both for men and women, with bigger size and flatter, then a new woman’s line called Velvet which is more a jewelry line, and the last, but not the least is a sports line called the Pulsion.
It is the first time that the Genevian watchmaker presented their four universes. In autumn last year, they launchedLa Monégasque, and last week at SIHH they presented three other lines: the Universe of the Dive around the Velvet, the Universe of the Venturer around the Pulsion and the Universe of the Warrior of the launch of the Excalibur.
Power, Lightness and Transparency of the New Excalibur
I will start with Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. It is not really a new watch, but it is for the first time housed in a “full black” titanium case with the diameter of 45 mm. This is a real warrior’s timepiece and its case is constructed to resist water pressure up to 50 meters (165 feet) beneath water surface.
This newcomer in the Excalibur Collection is powered by the Caliber RD01SQ skeleton double flying tourbillon movement with COSC. It incorporates two signature devices characteristic of Roger Dubuis, the double flying tourbillon and the skeleton. The hand-wound movement with 48 hours of power reserve has 319 parts and beats at the frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.
The Genevian watchmaker produced the latest arrival in the Excalibur Line in the limited quantity of only 88 pieces. Each of them is delivered with a hand-sewn black alligator-skin strap with an adjustable folding buckle in titanium.
Technological, Powerful and Dynamic: the Pulsion Chronograph
The Chronograph in the new Pulsion Collection with its black DLC titanium case with a 44 mm diameter and a rubber strap is designed for action. This sporty timepiece plays the card of total transparency in order to show its technical prowess. Its partially openwork dial reveals all the workmanship of its exclusive Caliber RD680 mechanical chronograph movement, and it is instantly recognizable thanks to its sapphire crystal screwed directly onto the case. This revolutionary formation enables the Arabic numerals to be engraved under the crystal and to be impregnated with luminescent material.
The impeccable movement represents the new generation of Roger Dubuis mechanical mechanisms. Based on the most advanced production technology, the movement consists of 264 individual parts and has a power reserve of 48 hours for the rapid frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Its sturdy case is water resistant up to 100 meters (330 feet) and attached to the wearer’s wrist with a black rubber strap, ending with a titanium folding buckle.
The Genevian watchmaker offered two models of Pulsion Chronograph. The first version is proposed in titanium and has a light-colored dial, whilst the second one is housed in a pink gold case with a dark dial.
Inspired by the World of the Diva – the New Velvet Collection
Roger Dubuis launched a new woman’s collection called Velvet which accurately reflects the women of today. I will present you my favorite timepieces of the Velvet line.
The first in line is the Velvet Amethysts and Spinels wristwatch inspired by the spirit of rock and roll.
Both amethysts and spinels are intertwined in a Byzantine-like mosaic and set on the 36 mm titanium and DLC case. Its charming bezel is encrusted with 46 amethysts weighing approximately 0.74 karats, whereas its lugs and decor are set with 40 spinels to give the total of some 0.50 karats. This combination of different materials and precious stones creates a dazzling mixture of colors and invite us to follow their dazzling dance of light.
The dial of this exquisite model is particularly attractive. In the foreground, a black brushed centre of the dial reveals the brand name, while the black brushed sunray effect exterior contrasts with the purple of the elongated Roman numerals.
In-house developed, designed and made Caliber RD 821 mechanical movement with full 48 hours of power reserve is housed in a black DLC titanium case. The self-winding mechanism built on 33 jewels has 168 individual parts and oscillates at the rapid frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.
This exceptional ladies’ timepiece is attached to a black satin finished fabric strap with an adjustable folding buckle in black DLC steel. The Velvet Amethysts and Spinels timepiece is limited to only 188 pieces.
I have already introduced you with the model in pink gold (read here) and the last Roger Dubuis timepiece from SIHH 2012 that I will present to you is the Velvet watch in white gold. This luxury piece of jewelry is set with one thousand and three hundred diamonds weighting approximately 9 karats. The dazzling Velvet timepiece in white gold glitters with a thousand shimmers of light – from its heart to the folding buckle. There are 310 sparkling diamonds paved on its case, whereas 494 diamonds are set on the bracelet, and 496 diamonds cover the back of the dial on which a metallised crystal displays elongated Roman numerals.
This exceptional model is also powered by the Caliber RD 821.
I am sure that all the models in the Velvet Collection will quickly find the place on a woman’s wrist.
All Roger Dubuis newcomers comply with all the latest requirements for the “Poinçon de Genève”. This mark of quality represents an official guarantee that the watch and its functions operate correctly. It also certifies that its mechanical watch movement is made by hand, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it complies with the strict requirements laid down for the watch manufacture.