The new model by Zenith called Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium is named after the founder of the brand and thus as it could be expected supplied with quite respectable horological traits. The watch is based upon its fusee and chain mechanism than supplies its hand-wound movement with constant force. This mechanism, visible through the substantial opening on the top of the watch’s dial is the most impressive trait of its manually-wound high-frequency movement. Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium is launched in the limited edition of 150 pieces and comes at the price of just under $70,000.
The latest watch in the Zenith’s palette of products is actually just a new version of the model of the golden watch that was actually first released in 2014. Both of them are made as a celebration of the brand’s great milestone of 150 years of existence. Even though it is not a completely a new model, its amazing traits combined with relatively affordable price for such a top-notch timekeeper make it quite interesting, especially for those who are able to spend rather large sums on their passion for horology.
Its main strong point is the mentioned use of the fusee and chain system, which is important since it allows the constant rate to the functioning of its high-frequency mechanism which ultimately is responsible for improved precision and dependability of the movement.
The prized and technically demanding system is naturally exposed on the skeletonized section of the dial and fixed by the means of two peculiar boomerang-shaped bridges which are secured with blued screws. The mechanism itself is naturally very complex and hard to create. Additionally, it adds to the larger number of total components in use, since just the chain includes more than 550 parts (it is precisely 18 cm long). In addition to the other ones, this brings the total sum of parts to 779.
Even though the watch is from the Academy series which concentrates on high-end watchmaking (unlike the sporty El Primeros), the piece is actually supplied with El Primero movement 4810C which naturally means that it functions on a higher frequency of 5 Hz, as it is customary for these pieces. The caliber in question if 16 ½ lignes wide (which is the same as 37 mm) and has the thickness of 5.9 mm. The lovely finished movement is visible from both sides and it integrates 30 jewels in its construction.
Apart from the prized mechanism on the top of the watch’s slate gray dial with discrete velvet finish, its face does not include many more indications and beautifications, which focuses the attention exactly where it should be. Apart from two central skeletonized gold and rhodium-plated hands for hours and minute, there are just a couple of additional indications.
One of these is the small seconds counter with silver colored periphery on the left side, and opposite to it there is the indication that shows the remaining state of its 50-hour long power reserve which is shown with a red pointer. The latter of these is actually on a lower plain which makes the face look a bit more distinguished. Finally, there is also a minute/seconds scale on the inner bezel with divisions for parts of the seconds, which is a bit strange since there is no central seconds hand. This was probably one to underline that the watch features an El Primero caliber. The lower part of the dial also includes applied hour markers (which are faceted, rhodiumized and treated with superluminova coating) and which are omitted at the top to allow a better view on its fuse and chain mechanism which is attached to the movement’s barrel.
The novel watch by the manufacturer from Le Locle is placed inside a circular case whose diameter measures to 46 mm, while the thickness is 14.05 mm which is quite expected because of the complexity of the movement. The material of choice that was used for the housing is brushed titanium which is also used for its fixed bezel. Encircled with a bezel there is a domed sapphire crystal with glare-proofed coatings on both of its sides. Sapphire can also be found on the rear side of the case so the wearer could see its movement as much as it is possible. Supported water resistance of the model is 100 meters.
For the attachment, Zenith chose a black hornback alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining. It fastens with a triple folding clasp made of titanium. The price of the 150-piece restricted series is 69,000 CHF which is roughly about $69,500.