Julien Coudray 1518 has unveiled another unique piece that incorporates several mesmerizing qualities. The new timekeeper named La Jaseur Boréal (The Bohemian Waxwing) is named after a miniature enamel painting of said bird that can be performed only by the most skillful of enamelers. The lovely scene in its center consists of painted, as well as of applied spots which in the end all form a perfectly harmonious pattern of stunning beauty. As if this was not enough, the watchmaker can also pride itself with the fact that this novelty is almost entirely (95 percent of it) made from a chunk of 18K 5N solid red gold which weighs 1kg. The golden components of La Jaseur Boreal are the case, the dial, the buckle and its in-house mechanical movement.
Enamel Miniature of a Bohemian Waxwing
The one-of-the-kind Julien Coudray 1518 newcomer stems from Les Oiseaux (The Birds) Collection and is in many aspects quite similar to the other single issue piece by the Swiss brand we have recently written about (“Ville de Geneve”). When talking about this timekeeper, one should start from its dial which is responsible for the watch’s name. As it has been mentioned, this charming 13-part face is made from solid 18K 5N gold which is even more enriched by enameling. At the perimeter, there are 12 domed cartouches crafted in the traditional grand feu enamel technique. Each of the segments (except the one at the eight o’clock position which preserves its golden shade and includes the brand’s logo, as it is Julien Coudray 16518’s common practice) shows a respective black Roman numeral on a white background.
The depiction of a bird in the central part of the dial is even more complex since it features grand feu enamel miniature. This was performed by a special “point by point” technique which was developed in the 17th century by one of the best enamel painters of all times, the Geneva native artist named Jean Petitot. This technique includes segments that are painted and applied individual segments which are all treated with heat in order to gain the quality of permanence. By using the procedure, the Swiss brand’s artisans made a depiction of an orange Bohemian waxwing which stands on a branch against a pink background at just a little bit off-centered position, in order not to be covered with the base of the watch’s hands. Speaking of hands, hour and minute ones are two-toned, whereas the sweeping second hand is blued. It is important to note that these colors were achieved without using any sort of chemical treatment or lacquer.
Red Gold Everywhere
More exciting facts are uncovered when one checks the specifications of the watch’s movement. As it was the case with the Geneva tribute timekeeper we have recently covered, the new one likewise has a manufacture mechanical movement made from solid 18K red gold. It is highly unusual that the entire caliber is in gold and in order to create it, Julian Coudray was forced to come up with several registered patents. The manually wound movement includes 34 jewels and has a power storage that keeps it running for 55 hours. Apart from three hands, the movement has one more supported function – that is an enameled 18K gold service indicator at the top of the dial. Every four years, an oil drop symbol indicates that it is time for fine tuning of the mechanism. Being as lavish and exclusive as this timekeeper surely is, it was quite expected that the movement is hand-engraved and hand-decorated. Furthermore, it was also natural that it can be seen through the transparent section of the case-back which is made from sapphire with anti-reflective coating. The same material was of course used for the crystal at the front.
The in-house golden movement is fitted into a round housing made from the same material. It has the diameter of 39 mm and the thickness of 9.85. Just like the case and for that matter the great majority of the watch, its crown is also made of solid red gold. For the wristlet, Julien Coudray 1518 used a hand-stitched light pink salmon strap lined with calf which fastens with a gold buckle that includes an engraved pictogram as the final in the watch’s plethora of decorations.