Hautlence, the Swiss brand known for the watches with an unusual display of the time, has added a new titanium version to the HL 2.0 series. As its predecessors, new HL 2.3 timekeeper by the Swiss brand features an in-house automatic movement with a gear train that features three of the brand’s patents, as well as a quirky and original appearance. It features an original half-trailing jumping hours indication on a chain, as well as a retrograde minutes display. Skeletonized in order to show its mechanical excellence, the new watch will feature the price of around $190,000 and will be sold in a fairly restricted series consisting of 28 pieces.
The third iteration of the timekeeper from the HL 2.0 series by Hautlence continues the success of two previous models which were made of red and white gold, respectively (these were likewise launched in limited editions of 28 copies). The HL 2.0 series is the first lineage by the watchmaker from Neuchatel equipped with a self-winding movement. Before finally launching this series in 2011, the Swiss company conducted extensive research and preparation which lasted nearly five years. This timeframe was caused by the intricacy of the selected way that the time is displayed.
The Magic of a Half-Trailing Jumping Hour Complication
Each of the timekeepers from the line, as well as the latest dubbed HL 2.3, includes a retrograde indication of the minutes. Around it, there is a mechanism utilized to display hours, which can be seen as the most distinguishing feature of the piece. The jumping hours mechanism is one of three patented innovations used for the watch. It has a half-trailing hours chain which means that at the every turn of the hour, the chain moves to the next position during a period that lasts for about three to four seconds. This sort of system allows the wearer to admire the functioning of the mechanism, especially the side of the skeletonized components which are used to provide a better look. Unlike the new system designed by Hautlence, the usual ones of jumping hours indications are made with an instant or a dragging system. However, these solutions can be considered as inferior to the brand’s patented one, since the first one involves sudden and short shifts, while the other includes gradual movements during the course of an hour which can obscure the readings.
A Regulating Organ and a Barrel System with Patents
The second innovation featured on the watches from the HL 2.0 series is a new regulating organ attached to the bridge of the caliber that has the same name as the series. This feature is driven by the watch’s display and it constantly moves position in order to counter the effects of the gravity. The final of the patents featured on the model is the one that concerns the functioning of its double spring barrel system. As the designers of Hautlence made sure, the system consists of the principal and the secondary barrel. The first barrel is wound by the watches automatic system, while the second one is wound by the first one and is used just for the jumping-hour complication.
As it has been mentioned, the coolest thing about the timepiece is the change which occurs at the end of each hour. First, the retrograde hand of the 180 degree display returns to its starting position. Once this occurs, the connecting rod drives a single revolution of the system. Interestingly, the 12-linked chain of the hour complication comes to life while being regulated with the speed control feature which allows gradual shift lasting for three to four seconds, which corresponds to 48 revolutions of the speed control system that rotates at a high speed. While the hour indication moves to the next correct place driven by the system’s gear train, a coupler activates the regulator which then shifts its position to 60 degrees. To make everything looks even cooler, the caliber is structured in three dimensions which is achieved with the use of specially produced beveled gears that were made with new specialized tools.
A Chunky Movement in a Chunky Titanium Housing
Automatic Caliber HL 2.0 used in the model also provides a retrograde power reserve indication of the storage that lasts for 45 hours. It is made of 552 components and integrates 92 jewels in its construction. The movement runs on the lower frequency of 18,000 vph, while its dimensions are 37.8mm in length, 33.2mm in width and 12.35mm in thickness. As it is common for the high-end calibers, it includes haute horlogerie finishing with satin-brushed, hand-drawn, hand beveled, ruthenium-anthracite coating, as well as polished decorations.
Hautlence HL 2.3 comes in a rectangular casing made of black titanium with sand-blasted, satin-brushed and hand polished surfaces. It is quite large with the length of 50mm, the width of 42mm and the thickness of 17.8mm. Moreover, it includes a crown, a horn and case-back screws forged from 18K 4N red gold. Another very interesting feature of the timekeeper is the appearance of its sapphire guarded dial with a brass plate used for hours. For the attachment, the manufacturer chose a black or a brown Louisiana alligator skin strap with large scales in square shape. The strap is fully wrapped, hand-stitched and it fastens with a folding buckle made from titanium and 19-karat rose gold. It is also noteworthy to say that the watch has the basic water resistance (30m).
