De Bethune’s DB28 watch received the Aiguille d’or, the highest accolade of the event, at the eleventh edition of the Grand Prix d’horologie. The “watchmaking Oscars” ceremony was held last Saturday at Geneva’s, and the representatives of the company: Dennis Flagoellet, David Zanetta and Pierre Jacques had the honor to receive the top prize for the exceptional model, made by the watchmaker that was founded only nine years ago.
The prized model, DB28, shows De Bethune’s intention to create timepieces that will be the watchmaking works of art, manufactured in accordance with the ideas of classical watchmaking. This meticulously crafted product is inspired by the company’s previous watches, DBS and the model this watchmaker made for the Only Watch auction two years ago. The watch that stole the show at Geneva features a specific open dial that enables you to gaze upon its beating heart, Calibre DB 2115 mechanism, and the neat spherical moon phase indicator which rotates on its own axis. The completely in-house devised mechanical hand-wound movement with 29 jewels consists of 276 components, and has the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The use of self-regulating twin barrel enables this watch to have an extended power reserve of six days, while the accuracy is improved with the inclusion of silicon and platinum balance wheel with flat terminal curve. For increased strength and as protection from bumps, De Bethune included triple para-chute shock-absorbing system.
Three-Dimensional Moon Phase Display and Tributes to Pocket Watches
The DB 2115 movement, as previously noted, includes a fascinating three-dimensional moon phase indication, made of platinum and blued-steel. Besides, the watch that earned the highest accolade in Geneva includes a remaining power reserve display and a performance indication. It is set in an exceptionally light round-shaped titanium case. There is also a rose-gold version, if that is your material of choice. The case is large enough to be quite legible, but it is not too big to be too flashy, since it is 45 mm wide and 11 mm thick. The titanium (or rose gold) case and strap, made of extra-supple alligator leather, are connected with floating lugs made of grade 5 titanium and with a pivoting system. The springs of the lugs adapt to the shape of a wrist and react to the movements in order to insure it to be as comfortable as possible. The crown of the DB28 model sits at the 12 o’clock position, as it would on a pocket watch. If you examine the back side of the case, you will notice that it is forged with a solid hunter-type case back which is another tribute to pocket timepieces, and aforementioned spirit of classical watchmaking. The case back is the location of its horizontally controlled power reserve indication.
The dial of the product that received the Aiguille d’or is guarded with a tough sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. The sapphire glass protects the black or anthracite dial which is ornamented by hand with Cotes De Bethune motif. The three o’clock position is the location of best-performance zone indication, while the moon phase display sits at the bottom of the dial.
De Bethune DB28 timepiece is made in four variations. The first one is the DB28RSB, the only one that is fitted in a rose gold case. It is paired with an anthracite-colored dial, while its lugs are blued. The only other model with blued titanium lugs is DB28TIS5B. This model also involves the anthracite dial. The same-colored dial is present in the third model with the designation DB28TIS5. However, the titanium lugs of this variation are not blued, unlike in the previous version. That is also the case with the final model, DB28TIS8, which is made with a black dial.