Corum has reveled new lavish versions of its iconic Golden Bridge and Miss Golden Bridge models. The new luxurious models for him and her combine already impressive horological qualities of these timekeepers (namely, their innovative baguette movements) with the multitude of sparkling sapphires and diamonds which are paved across all the suitable surfaces. Furthermore, they are set with the use of the demanding invisible setting technique. Placed all over the cases, dials, bezels, lugs, buckles (and in the metal bracelet variations over the attachments as well), precious stones complement the in-house movements and together with them produce an impression of the ultimate luxury. Each of the models includes a proper heap of gems, while the most glamorous iteration features precious stones with the amazing total weight of just under 35 carats.
An Abundance of Sapphires and Diamonds
As far as the men’s timekeeper in the pair, Golden Bridge, is concerned, Corum has selected to decorate it with the combination of blue sapphires and white diamonds. The most ornate version of the piece is the one with a fully-pavé metal bracelet. It is an extravagant piece reserved only for the selected few, since its astonishing decorations include fantastic 546 blue baguette-cut sapphires (with the approximate weight of 20.63 carats) and 476 baguette-cut diamonds (weighing around 14.01 carats). Even the less luxurious version with a blue crocodile leather strap can be seen as a proper treasure chest since it includes no less than 360 sapphires (with the weight of about 15.18 carats) and 10 diamonds (0.29 carats) with the addition of 10 lovely round diamonds 9o.31 carats) on its buckle.
Pink, Cognac-Colored or All-White Versions for Ladies
On the other hand, the feminine Miss Golden Bridge is available in even more versions and with more subtle decorations in various shades, as it could be excepted since it is intended for the fairer sex. There are three basic versions, one in a pink-colored cloak, the other one in the shade of cognac, while the third one is bathed in pure white stones. Each of them can be coupled with a paved bracelet or with a leather strap, as it was also the case with the men’s model.
Let us start with the pink feminine model which includes precious stones in seven different shades. It likewise includes a host of baguette-cut sapphires. To be more precise, there are 84 of these stones on the dial (1.56 carats), 53 on the bezel (3.1 carats) and 84 more on the case middle (once again 3.1 carats). As if this was not enough, there are more pink-colored precious stones which accentuate the watch. The stones in question are 10 baguette-cut diamonds (0.32 carats) which are set across the dial and the case of this special Haute Joaillerie edition of Miss Golden Bridge. If we examine the metal bracelet iteration, we will see the presence of 233 pink baguette-cut sapphires (6.83 carats) and 176 baguette-cut diamonds (5.16 carats). The white alligator strap model on the other hand has its white gold buckle sprinkled with 20 more diamonds (0.23 carats).
The second version of the high jewelry, Miss Golden Bridge watch, is dominated with cognac (or as some could say, amber) colored stones. The one with a bracelet has a total of 456 baguette-cut sapphires (14.59 carats) and 186 diamonds (5.48 carats), while the leather strap one involves 223 sapphires (7.76 carats) and 10 more diamonds (0.32 carats). Moreover, there is an all-white variation of the model which is completely paved with white baguette-cut diamonds and it shows off 642 shimmering gems weighing 18.2 carats for the full-set version. The alligator strap variation, on the other hand, is with 223 stones (7.62 carats) and 20 round diamonds on its buckle (0.23 carats).
Invisible Setting and Its Adaptation
Not only that new Corum Golden Bridge and Miss Golden Bridge high jewelry watches are impressive because of the mere amount of gems that are used as ornaments, but also because of the manner in which the stones have been incorporated – with the help of a technique called invisible setting. The whole process which requires an immense amount of experience and skill starts off with the selection of the stones and Corum’s craftsman and women need to pick gems that are pure and which are suitable to be fitted together. They have to take into account the size, cut, color and shape of gems which can be placed next to each other in a way that will give an appearance of them being in perfect harmony and without any visible space among them. This is more an art than exact science and requires long-term training and skillful and experienced eyes. Once the diamonds have been picked, artisans start several procedures whose purpose is to prepare the 18K pink gold surfaces for the stones and only then the setting can commence.
The technique used in this case is invisible setting which involves that each stone is chiseled with a groove and then placed into a metal basis. Since the stones are fitted very close to each other, one cannot see any bit of the metal on which they stand, hence the name “invisible”. This procedure is demanding but quite doable by a skillful artisan when the setting of the case and bracelet are concerned. However, this cannot be done with the dial, so Corum was forced to modify the setting technique. For the dial, it envisioned a procedure where it is initially fixed on a see-through plate. Then, a silver-based ally is poured over the structure. It oozes into minute gaps among stones and gradually cools itself and solidifies. After that, the transparent plate can be removed and the structure can be fitted on the dial made from white gold and voila, the invisible set watch’s face with diamonds and sapphires is complete.
Linear Hand-Wound Caliber CO 113 as the Driving Force
After the extensive tale about the precious stones that were used for Corum’s pair of newcomers, let us concentrate on the watchmaking aspect of them. Both watches are equipped with manually-wound mechanical Caliber CO 113 which was premiered in the basic version of Miss Golden Bridge timekeeper when it first appeared three years ago. The high-end baguette movement (stemming from the first caliber of this kind that the Swiss manufacturer unveiled 33 years ago) with a linear architecture was chosen as a suitable one for both men’s and women’s new watches from the Golden Bridge collection. By the way, both watches are placed inside a tonneau-shaped casing. The only difference is that Golden Bridge is a bit bigger with the width of 35 mm and the length of 51.2 mm.
Caliber CO 113 is very precise and it is elongated by the crown placed at the unusual 6 o’clock position. It is made with an innovative slipping-spring winding system that eliminates overexerting of the mechanism, as well as with a coupling clutch that is used to separate winding and time-setting features. Moreover, the manually wound caliber made in-house by the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker incorporates variable-inertia balance and two bridge pillars. The movement with 19 jewels has the running frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 40 hours. It is certainly a technical marvel, but it is also aesthetically supreme. It features upper bridge made from 18 K gold which is engraved with the brand’s logo, as well as stylized representations of three types of plants which are endemic to the region where Corum originates from. To ensure the maximal exposure of the movement, Corum has integrated sapphire crystals on the front, the back and both sides of the case.