Christophe Claret is known for creating extremely complex watches and the reason why new Maestoso piece looks unusual at the first glance is because it only involves the basic indication for hour and minutes. However, this is only superficial since the watch is extremely intricate and innovative and since it resurrects one of the traditional horological solutions. The novel wristwatch from the Classic Complications collection is made with a detent escapement instead of the ubiquitously used lever escapement. Even though the utilized type of escapement is historically known for its precision, which is why it was dominant in marine chronometers that enabled navigation in yesteryears, it is by no means befitting to be worn on a wrist. The reason for this is the fact that it needs to be fixed since it has very poor shock. This problem only proved to be a challenge for Christophe Claret who came up with three patents and a handful of innovative systems in order to secure reliable functioning. The completely in-house new hand-wound caliber DTC07 with distinctively shaped Charlex X type stepped bridges can likewise proud itself with constant force. Furthermore, it possesses a skeltonized dial and it is made in three variations with different case materials. These are red gold; red gold and titanium; as well as white gold and titanium. As for the price, it spans from $178,000 to $186,000, depending on a version.
Historically More Precise and Fragile Alternative
The detent escapement was originally invented in the mid 18th century. After several modifications and alterations, this type of escapements became dominant in marine chronometers due to its improved accuracy in longer periods. The improved punctuality stems from the fact that they had lower sliding friction during the transfer of energy. However, its use in pocket watches was limited since its known issues when regarding the fragility and much more difficult maintenance. With the new Maestoso timepiece, Christophe Claret has come up with a solution to the problem of its low shock-resistance and this naturally required three registered patents and several clever technical solutions.
One of these traits used in the caliber with a detent escapement made in grade 5 titanium is the use of an anti-pivot cam which is integrated to the balance spring and which works together with a safety finger. Caliber DTC07 furthermore has its escapement placed between sapphire bridges which allows it to suffer common shocks and forces which occur when a watch is worn on a wrist. Another issue that was resolved in the new proprietary movement was potential overbanking which is caused by the presence of excessive energy which impairs the punctuality. This was solved with the addition of flexible thrust bearing that the brand has fitted on the wheel and conjoined to the movement’s balance.
However, there is still more to come when the technical aspect of the watch is concerned. One of its most notable characteristics is that it has constant force which allows better transfer of energy regardless of the condition of the power reserve. Another uncommon thing is that the caliber utilizes a cylindrically shaped balance spring instead of the usual flat one. Otherwise, it should be said that this complex movement with the relatively low frequency of 2 Hz has the total amount of 301 parts and 44 jewels integrated in its construction. Its diameter is 31 mm and the height is 8.6 mm. For its power storage, DTC07 uses four barrels set in a series which allows a storage that exceeds 80 hours. When it comes to its architectonics, we should also note that the timepiece possesses Charles X type stepped bridges that serve as another nod to the watchmaking and decorative traditions.
Christophe Claret Maestoso is made with a circular-shaped housing which has the diameter of 44 mm and the thickness just under 14 mm (exactly 13.59 mm). It includes a cabochon crown and features water resistance to 30 meters. The watch fortunately has a skeletonized dial which apart from hour and minutes also exposes constant force system at the four o’clock position. On the outskirts of the dial, there is a flange with the brand’s distinctively shaped hour markers. Two stumpy black central hands are made from ceramic and are treated with anthracite PVD coating, while its tips are luminous for better legibility. As for the attachment, Christophe Claret has a black alligator strap with the stitching in the same shade. It fastens with a clasp made of stainless steel with ADLC treatment, combined with five caps made of titanium with anthracite PVD treatment. It should likewise be said that the clasp includes the additional brand’s logo in gold.
There are three versions of the high horology watch which rehabilitates a detent escapement and stems from the Christophe Claret Traditional Complications series . The first one bears the serial number MTR.DTC07.060-080 and has its case made in 5N red gold. It has the steepest price of all versions and it costs $186,000. Other two versions combine gold with titanium for the housing. While the model MTR.DTC07.030-050 mixes the material with red gold and has the price of $178,000, the final version MTR.DTC07.000-020 has its case in titanium and white gold, and it can be bought for $182,000.