Bulgari has presented another record-breaking timekeeper from its Octo Finissimo series. Just like in two previous occasions, the newcomer is the thinnest watch in the world in its own category. This time, it is the thinnest self-winding mechanical piece on the market to this point. Octo Finissimo Automatic has a flat caliber whose thickness measures to just 2.23 mm, breaking the current record set by Piaget by as much as 8 mm. It allows the piece to have the profile of just 5.25 mm. Additionally, the watch is set in a titanium case and it has a straightforward design that makes it look formal and masculine. Depending on the choice of the attachment, the price of the new Octo Finissimo timekeeper is between $11,900 and $12,900.
In-House Caliber BLV 138 Sets a New Record
Bulgari Octo Finissimo is the series in which the Italian brand had already presented two ultra-thin watches that were unprecedented in their categories (the flattest tourbillion and minute repeater in the world). At the Baselworld 2017, the same collection was extended with another record piece which is in this instance much less complicated than those two pieces. However, it represents no minor feat since it easily breaks the record for the thinnest automatic watch with its BVL 138 caliber. Its movement easily defeats the previous holder Piaget Altiplano and its 1208P caliber by the large margin of 8 mm.
The proprietary movement which was developed and manufactured in the brand’s facilities in the Swiss Le Sentier is actually based on the previous hand-wound movement BVL 128 (which is of course also very thin) that was extensively remodeled and adapted for a new type of piece. Naturally, these primarily include an addition of a micro-rotor for automatic winding, alongside a new mainspring. The new BVL 138 with 36 integrated jewels operates at the slower pace of 3 Hz and has the power reserve of 60 hours which is pretty opulent for an automatic piece (since this kind of watches are commonly with the power storage of around two days), not to mention for an ultra-thin piece. As for its decorations, the most notable ones include the Geneva striping, anglage and beveleing which are all visible on the case-back of the piece.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is set in a recognizable octagonal housing made of titanium that allows the flat watch to be pretty light as well. The material received a sand-blasted finish for an additional appeal. The housing is 40 mm wide and includes a fixed bezel and sapphire crystals on both of its sides. It has basic water resistance to 30 meters.
The dial color of the newcomer matches its gray case and it is pretty simple. There are black baton-shaped hour markers (and two slender Arabic numerals on top and bottom), as well as black sword-shaped central hands (the hour and minute hands are the only elements with luminous coating). One can also notice a small seconds counter which is set at an uncommon lower left part of the dial. It is done so it would sit directly over the seconds wheel in order to allow the piece to be as thin as possible.
The design of the case involves an attachment that is integrated into the case. There are two types of available wristlets: a black alligator strap and a titanium bracelet. The former locks with a pin-buckle, while the latter one fastens with a folding clasp. Both are made from titanium to match the housing. Furthermore, the choice of the strap significantly determines the price, since the titanium bracelet version costs around $1,000 more.