Patek Philippe has introduced a new timepiece to its Nautlus line of casually elegant watches. New Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph REF. 5990/1A is a timekeeper that brings a unique combination of features when Patek Philippe watches are concerned. Its self-winding movement for the first time unifies a column-wheel flyback chronograph feature with a dual time function which is executed with two central hands and a couple of day/night indicators. It can be adjusted in both directions, but only in one-hour increments. The watch features the recognizable design of the Nutulus line and it is made with stainless steel case and bracelet with alternating finishes. Its price is $57,300.
The Nautilus line of products was designed by the late Gerald Genta nearly forty years ago. During the course of time, these watches with sporty elegant look, as well as with rugged and resilient construction have reached a cult status among watch aficionados. However, it took quite a while for the Nautilus line to get its first chronograph, which happened when the collection turned 30 in 2006. On the three decade jubilee, Patek Philippe presented 5980/1A model which was the first Nautlus chronograph. This model is from now on replaced with this newcomer which apart from the chrono feature also includes a dual time function.
Two Central Hour Hands
Thanks to its clever design with two central hour hands, time in both time zones is easily readable. To avoid any potential confusion, these baton-style hands are notably different. The home time hour hand is skeletonized and lacquered in white, unlike the local time hour hand which has a luminous coating. The local time hand is actually on a slightly higher plane, so when the local time and hand time are the same, it actually stands on the top of the skeletonized one as they move in unison. Both of these hands, as well as the universal minute hand are made of 18 K white gold which is also the material used to make ten hour markers. The minute hand is in the same baton style, the matching material and with the same coating as the local time hour hand, while the slim seconds chronograph hand, the fourth one on the same axis, is made from rhodiumized stainless steel.
Typical Naitilus Design Traits – Porthole Shaped Housing and Dial with Embossed Horizontal Motif
With the use of two pushers on the left side of the case-band, the owner can effortlessly move local time in one hour increments. There are also two night/day indicators which stand at the opposite parts of the dial (left and right), slightly below the center. The symmetry of the dial is additionally enhanced with two opposed counters at the top and the bottom of the dial for analog date display and for chrono 60 minutes, respectively. It should be said that the design of the watch’s black face bears typical Nautilus elements with a horizontal embossed motif which is slightly brighter in the center than on the periphery.
Certainly, the most evident of all Nautilus collection traits is the shape of the case which resembles a port-hole. This feature is once again implemented in the new model. However, there was some necessary tweaking of the design. Usually, Nautilus housing includes two hinges on both sides of the case. While the right one (which is used to guard the crown) is present, the left one is replaced with the mentioned two pushers which are made in the manner which preserves the original contour. Likewise, this does not compromise the water resistance of the watch which is still at common 120 meters. The stainless steel case of irregular shape is 45.7 mm wide with the crown included, 45.5 mm long and 12.53 mm wide. Its front is guarded with a domed sapphire crystal encircled with a fixed bezel with satin-finish and polished chamfering. The back of the housing, secured with four screws is made with a skeletonized segment made from sapphire.
New Caliber Made Specifically for the Model
Even though all of the watch’s features were found on earlier models by Patek Philippe, the new Ref. 5990/1A timekeeper is the first one with all of them combined at one place. This is why the manufacturer had to create a new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS. The automatic movement has a traditional column-wheel chronograph mechanism improved with an addition of a disk clutch. It likewise includes the brand’s patented Travel Time mechanism from 1959 which allows bi-directional adjustment and which is completely detached from the gear train once the time setting is activated which guards the timepiece’s accuracy.
The new movement by Patek Philippe has additional features such as an analog date display and a 60-minute counter which were not included in its predecessor from the Nautilus line. These changes required 47 additional parts (it has 370 components in total). However, the new caliber is just 0.3 mm thicker than the one used in the previous chronograph from the collection (it is 28 mm wide, 31 mm long and 6.95 mm thick). This is possible since the brand supplied it with the brand’s patented Spiromax balance spring which is made of Silnvar material and which oscillates in a single plane.
Furthermore, Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS with 34 jewels is made with a Gyromax balance and it beats at the frequency of 28,800 vph. It is a self-winding movement wound by a well known 21 K gold central rotor with one directional winding. Once it is filled completely, its power reserve lasts from 45 to 55 hours. In Patek Philippe’s common practice, the movement is embellished with high-end finishes. It includes a Cotes de Geneva motif on the chamfered bridges, as well as Geneva circular graining on the gold rotor.
The watch is rounded up with the addition of a Nautilus steel bracelet with a satin-finished peripheral link and mirror-polished central segments. It locks with a fold-over clasp.