The Schaffhausen-based watchmaker, H. Moser & Cie, developed its first in-house perpetual calendar movement in 2006. This year, the independent manufacturer will launch a black edition of this model which will be available in a black DLC coated titanium case. Titanium is easy to wear, hypoallergenic and extremely light material, while the black color leaves impression that the watch looks more aggressive when compared to the previous versions, such as rose gold, white gold, and platinum models.
H. Moser Perpetual Calendar Black Edition (ref. 341.050-020) is housed in a round case which measures 40.8mm in diameter and 11.1mm in thickness. The case is shielded with curved sapphire crystals on both sides. The case incorporates a black DLC coated screw-in crown which is encrusted with an “M”.
The beating heart of the watch is the in-house manufactured caliber HMC 341 hand-wound movement that provides minimum 7 days of power reserve when fully wound. The 28 jewels mechanism oscillates at the frequency of 18,000 beats per hour (2,5 Hz) and features a double barrel, an interchangeable Moser escapement, the original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil, as well as a pallet fork and an escapement wheel made from gold. All movement components are hand-finished. The inner beauty of the watch is revealed through a curved sapphire crystal case back.
The mechanism not only marks time by adjusting for leap years and the different number of days in certain months, the “Flash Date Calendar” harnesses the energy to switch the date precisely in a fraction of a second. An oversized date window is located at the 3 o’clock position, while a retrograde power reserve display is situated at the 9 o’clock position. A small seconds counter with snailed finish ringed in rose gold is placed at the 6 o’clock position. The month display is using the hour indexes to mark the months with a short hand shaped like an arrow. I also want to mention that this perpetual calendar is one of the few perpetual calendar mechanisms that can be adjusted forward and backward at any time of day, without any risk to damage the movement.
The latest H. Moser & Cie timepiece will be accessorized with carbon-coated alligator leather strap with a matte finish, ending with a pin-buckle clasp in DLC treated titanium (with the engraved Moser logo).
H. Moser Perpetual Calendar Black Edition will be produced in limited series of only 100 pieces. This newcomer will be officially presented at the upcoming Baselworld 2014.