It seems that the German watchmaking firm Glashütte Original has very ambitious plans for 2012, judging by the new editions to their collection of watches presented at “the event” of watchmaking industry which is currently happening in the Swiss town of Basel. For this year’s edition of Baselworld, the Saxon firm prepared the most complex timepiece in its history, a traveler’s watch named Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon. Apart from the most ambitious watch by Glashütte yet, the brand also presented four novelties with different complications in the line of watches with the recognizable asymmetric Pano dials. Furthermore, there is one new refine women’s model dubbed Lady Serenade, as well as three new variations of Senator Perpetual Calendar model.
Let us cut to the chase and start the presentation of Glashütte’s novelties with the most impressive of newcomers. It is a sophisticated watch called Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon with yet unseen feature in the universe of mechanical watches. This fine traveler’s timepiece has the ability to inform its wearer of the current time of day (or night) both in his home time zone and in another one that he or she is visiting. There is a choice of 37 time zones, and not just the main ones, but it also includes the ones with 30 or 45 minute offsets. The wearer can pick his or her home and the visiting time zone among any of those 37 choices.
Furthermore, the timepiece takes into account whether it is standard or daylight saving time. It has the ability to adjust these indications, as well as the displays of its perpetual calendar (which can even be as much as five changes) to correct settings, regardless of the direction of traveling (east or west), with a simple turn of the crown in the right direction (clockwise for east and counter-clockwise for west). As explained, all the indications are adjusted when the crown is turned, even if the change is from March 1 to the last day of February (28 or 29, depending on whether it is a leap or a common year) which is a feature that has never been seen in any of the existing mechanical timepieces.
Intricate Hand-Wound In-House Movement
As if all of this was not enough, this exquisite watch also has a movement with a tourbillon. It is a very complex in-house manufactured Calibre 89-01 hand-winding movement that has more than five hundred components with Glashütte ribbing, winding wheels and screw-mounted gold chatons. The mechanism has a power reserve of 72 hours, which is indicated at the back of its case.
The lovely large dial of Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon timepiece is made from 18K silver-grained gold that is nicely complemented with blued hands. On the outer part of its high-end looking dial, we can see milled Roman numerals and railroad chapter ring, the recognizable feature of watches made by the Saxon brand. The top part of the dial shows-off the tourbillon cage and serves as small seconds counter. The time in the current time zone is indicated on the main central dial, while the time in the place of wearer’s residence can be seen on the smaller 24-hour dial located at the bottom (which also includes day and night indication).
Besides, the dial includes two more sub dials with double functions, placed on the right (between two and three o’clock positions) and on the left side (between nine and ten o’clock positions). The left one indicates a month and whether it is a leap year, while the right one tells a day of a week and indicates if it is a night or a day in the second time zone. There are also three apertures on the face of the watch. The large one at the four o’clock position shows date, while two smaller ones serve to show the location of the second time zone and if it is standard time or daylight saving time (the correct setting has the official three letter code of the city and used in aero transportation).
The most intricate watch made by Glashütte Original has a large platinum case with the diameter of 48 mm. It also has a hunter-style case back. The cap of a case back is engraved with a graph that shows all of 37 time zones that can be used, as well as their relations to each other. Once opened, it reveals the remaining power reserve display. Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon made by the German company is paired up with a black alligator strap that fastens with a platinum fold-over clasp that matches its case. Since it is a very exclusive timepiece, it has a packaging of the same kind. The watch comes in a stylish box made of peat bog oak with a steel maps motif on it. The case is not only decorative, but also functional, because it includes a winding system that recharges the power reserve. This grande complication timepiece is produced in the limited edition of just 25 pieces.
Newcomers from the Line with the Distinctive Asymmetrical Dial – Partially Skeletonized Dial, Chronograph, Moon Phase and Power Reserve Complications
For this year’s edition of Baselworld show, the company named after the Saxon town where it is located, has also fabricated four new watches with the asymmetrical Pano dials, designed in the agreement with the harmonious proportions of golden ratio. There are four new watches with four complications and each of them is named after the additional feature it possesses. The first and certainly the most notable of them is dubbed PanoInverse XL. However, it is not the completely new model (it was launched four years ago, for the first time), but two new variations of it are with larger dials and cases, executed in rose gold and stainless steel.
As soon as you lay your eyes on this timepiece, you will notice that its dial has a skeleton section that reveals the butterfly, or the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment component of the movement made of galvanized silver and mounted on a black balance bridge that also has galvanic finish. This part of the mechanism allows a very accurate regulation of the caliber’s beat and rate. Beneath the butterfly, we can see the oscillating screw balance of the brand’s proprietary that manually-wound Caliber 66 movement. Other details visible on the silver (for rose gold version) or black-colored dial (for stainless steel version) are gold-chatons which are fixed with three screws to three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, applied numerals visible on the top hour dial, as well as a fine power reserve indication located at the top right section of the watch’s face.
As it was previously said, new PanoInverse XL models have larger diameters than the previous incarnations of the watch. The diameter of each case is 42 mm and its thickness is 12 mm. For the crystal, the German brand used a double anti-reflective sapphire. It is also worth mentioning that these watches have a power reserve of around 41 hour. Its hand-wound mechanical movement runs on 4 Hz and has 31 jewels. The red gold variation that is constructed in the limited edition of 200 pieces is paired with a brown Nubuk Louisiana alligator strap, while the steel version offers a choice among a dark gray Louisiana alligator strap and a steel bracelet.
A Flyback Column-Wheel Chronograph with a Retrograde Minute Counter
The second novelty in the Pano line is another already successful model called PanoGraph, which is for this year also made in a larger scale, with an expanded cylindrical case that is 40 mm wide. Like all the watches from the Pano series, it also has an asymmetrical dial, with interlocking dials of different sizes. The largest dial is used to display hour and minutes, while the smaller one that is overlapping with it is used as subsidiary seconds counter. Still, its most eye-catching visual feature is a retrograde 30-minute chrono counter that sits at the right side of the face. Beneath the retrograde chronograph minute indicator lays an oversized Panorama Date display. The hands on the dial are made of 18k red gold in order to be in accordance with the case of the watch.
The original PanoGraph watch is made with a hand-wound mechanical column-wheel flyback chronograph movement, with the designation 61-03, which can be seen through the transparent case back. The hand assembled and finished in-house mechanism vibrates 28,800 times per hour, has 41 jewels and includes a power reserve of 42 hours.
Glashütte Original PanoGraph timepiece is shielded with a glare-proof sapphire crystal and made to be able to withstand water pressure up to 50 meters. The new variation with a larger case diameter also has a somewhat wider black or brown Louisiana alligator strap.
The next novelty from the Pano collection is PanoReserve timepiece, available in two variations, in red gold and in stainless steel. This watch is visually fairly similar to the previous model. It also features the distinctive Pano dial which is in this instance supplied with the power reserve indication (in German language) on the right side.
The variation constructed from red gold has a silver dial and more minimalistic appearance with a slimmer fixed bezel. The other variation, made with a polished and satin-finished stainless steel case is available with two different dial colors. It is possible to choose among the gray ruthenium dial with white gold hands, applied nickel indexes, whereas the one with a silver dial incorporates blued hands and applied indexes. Two versions of PanoReserve in steel cases also have Panorama Date indications in different colors: the first one has a white-on-grey date display, while the other one includes a black-on-white indication.
PanoReserve timepiece made by Glashütte Original and unveiled at Baselworld 2012 event functions thanks to its hand-winding mechanical Calibre 65-01 movement. This mechanism has 48 jewels, the frequency of 4 Hz, and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The red gold version can be paired with a brown Louisiana leather strap or a black Nubuk strap, whereas the steel model offers a choice between a black leather strap and a stainless steel bracelet.
A Self-Winding Watch with Lunar Phases
The final newcomer from the Pano collection of the high-end German watchmaker is named PanoMaticLunar, and, as it is obvious, it is made with a lunar phase indication. Like the previous novelties, this one is also equipped with a larger cylindrical case with a narrower bezel that was manufactured in Glashütte’s workshops. In Basel, the Saxon brand is presenting three new variations that were made from 18K red gold, plus two more made from polished and satin-brushed stainless steel, just like it is the case with PanoReserve watches. The red gold model has a silver dial and red gold hands, while its moon phase indication has golden details. The first one of steel timepieces also includes a silver dial, blued steel hands and silver accents on its lunar phase display, whereas the one with a ruthenium grey dark dial with applied silver indexes has white gold elements on the moon phase indication.
As in the previous cases, there are a few options for bracelets: the red gold watch can be paired with leather straps with different colors and finishes, while two steel timepieces can be combined with the same straps or with steel bracelets. Each of the cases has the same dimensions. Those are the diameter of 40 mm and the thickness of 12.7 mm. Other mutual characteristics are water resistance of 50 meters, and the inclusion of self-winding Caliber 90-02 movement. The automatic caliber has the frequency of 4 Hz, 47 jewels and a power reserve of about 42 hours.
Something for Ladies, a Decorative Automatic Timepice Named Lady Serenade
After the numerous novelties from the Pano series by Glashütte, we will present the watch that the German brand made especially for women, Lady Serenade watch. This timepiece comes from the Lady Collection that was launched five years ago. It is an elegant watch with a distinguished high-class look. In order to make it possible to combine it with a host of different outfits, the Saxon firm decided to make it available in different materials (rose gold or stainless steel), dial colors (blue or white mother-of-pearl and brown), as well as different bracelets (gray-blue, beige and tangerine colored alligator leather straps; satin, mint or bronze colored straps; and metal bracelets). Depending on the model, the dials are supplied with white or red gold hands and curved decorations. Each of the pieces can be bought with a diamond-encrusted bezel for additional sparkle. The mutual traits for all variations are the diameter of 36 mm, befitting for a women’s wrist, and the thickness of 10.2 mm.
Lady Serenade timepiece by Glashütte Original includes an automatic mechanical movement Caliber 39-22 with 25 jewels and with the butterfly adjustment. Anti-reflective sapphire crystals are present on the face, as well as on the back of the watch. This timepiece is water proof to 50 meters. Available functions are hours, minutes, seconds and a date display that sits at the bottom of the dial.
Three New Versions of Senator Perpetual Calendar Timepiece
The final novelties from the German company are three new variations of the model that debuted last year, Senator Perpetual Calendar. The last year’s version was made with a red gold case and a black dial. This time, Glashütte decided to enrich the collection with the new variation in the same material, but with a silver dial, as well as with two versions with steel casings (one with a matt black, and other with a silver dial). Each of the versions has a case that is 42 mm wide and 13.6 mm thick.
The dial of this watch features a very subdued and subtle clear design, and is characterized with exceptional readability, enhanced with the inclusion of a double glare-proof sapphire crystal. On the outer part of the dial, the company’s designer placed Roman numerals, encircled with the railroad chapter ring. The moon phase indication (a black disk with a silver moon and stars paired with a black dial, while blue disks with silver moons and stars are included for silver versions) sits at the eight o’clock position, while the other displays that make the full calendar are scattered across the dial in the form of apertures, with the large Panorama date display clearly dominating. There is also a discreet indication of a leap year, placed slightly above the center of the dial. While the leap year indication is signified with a red dot, while subsequent years are marked with respective changing of yellow, black and white dots.
The beating heart of Senator perpetual Calendar timepiece, Caliber 100-02, can be clearly seen through the transparent sapphire case back. The high-frequency self-winding caliber (that has 59 jewels) with a screw balance with 18 weighted golden screws vibrates 28,800 times every hour and provides a power reserve of about 55 hours.
Thanks to its reset mechanism, this movement allows effortless synchronization of the second hand. This is possible since it is not in connection to winding system or the crown, like it is the case in most instances. Even when the crown is pulled out, the balance still oscillates and its reset mechanism is activated with a separate push-button. The rotor of the mechanism winds in both direction and thus provides a constant power to caliber. As it is usual for Glashütte Original, the movement features lovely looking finishes. The movement includes the recognizable Glashütte three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, skeletonized rotor with 21K gold oscillation weight, the butterfly adjustments and twin spring barrels.
The choice of bracelets includes black leather straps and black rubber bands. Both of them fasten with fold-over clasps made from red gold or stainless steel, depending on the material of the case. It is also worth mentioning that this model is water proof to 50 meters.